Friday February 14 St Valentine

THE DOG-MAN'S NAME IS GUILLAUME. HE HELPED ME WITH the delivery yesterday and he was my first customer this morning. He had his dog, Charly, with him, and he greeted me with a shy politeness which was almost courtly.

`It looks wonderful,' he said, looking around. `You must have been up all night doing this.’

I laughed.

`It's quite a transformation,' said Guillaume. `You know, I'm not sure why, but I'd just assumed it was going to be another bakery.’

`What, and ruin poor Monsieur Poitou 's trade? I'm sure he'd thank me for that, with his lumbago playing up the way it is, and his poor wife an invalid and sleeping so badly.’

Guillaume bent to straighten Charly's collar, but I saw his eyes twinkle.

`I see you've met,' he said.

`Yes. I gave him my recipe for bedtime tisane.’

`If it works, he'll be a friend for life.’

`It works,' I assured him. Then, reaching under the counter I pulled out a small pink box with a silver valentine bow on it. `Here. For you. My first customer.’

Guillaume looked little startled.

`Really, Madame, I-' `Call me Vianne. And I insist.’

I pushed the box into his hands. `You'll like them. They're your favourite kind.’

He smiled at that. `How do you know?’

he enquired, tucking the box carefully into his coat pocket.

`Oh, I can just tell,' I told him mischievously. `I know everyone's favourite. Trust me, this is yours.’

The sign wasn't finished until about noon. Georges Clairmont came to hang it himself then, profusely apologetic at his lateness. The scarlet shutters look beautiful against the new whitewash and Narcisse, grumbling halfheartedly about the late frosts, brought some new geraniums from his nursery to put in my planters. I sent them both away with valentine boxes and similar expressions of bemused pleasure. After that, barring a few schoolchildren, I had few visitors. It is always the case when a new shop opens in such a small village; there is a strict code of behaviour governing such situations and people are reserved, pretending indifference though inwardly they burn with curiosity. An old lady ventured in, wearing the traditional black dress of the country widow. A man with dark, florid features bought three identical boxes without asking what was inside. Then for hours, no-one came. It was what I expected; people need time to adapt to change, and though I caught several sharp glances at my display window, no-one seemed inclined to go in. Behind the studied unconcern however, I sensed a kind of seething, a whispering of speculation, a twitching of curtains, gathering of resolve. When at last they came, it was together; seven or eight women, Caroline Clairmont, wife of the signmaker, amongst them. A ninth, arriving somewhat behind the group, remained outside, her face almost touching the window, and I recognized the woman in the tartan coat.

The ladies eyed everything, giggling like schoolgirls, hesitant, delighting in their collective naughtiness.

`And do you make them all yourself?’ asked Cecile, who owns the pharmacy on the main street.

`I should be giving it up for Lent,' commented Caroline, a plump blonde with a fur collar.

`I won't tell a soul,' I promised. Then, observing the woman in the tartan coat still gazing into the window, `Won't your friend join us?’

`Oh, she isn't with us,' replied Joline Drou, a sharp featured woman who works at the local school. She glanced briefly at the square-faced woman at the window. `That's Josephine Muscat.’

There was a kind of pitying contempt in her voice as she pronounced the name. `I doubt she'll come in.’

As if she had heard, I saw Josephine redden slightly, lowering her head against the breast of her coat. One hand was drawn up against her stomach in an odd, protective gesture. I could see her mouth, perpetually downturned, moving slightly, in the rhythms of prayer or cursing.

I served the ladies – a white box, gold ribbon, two paper cornets, a rose, a pink valentine bow – amidst exclamations and laughter. Outside Josephine Muscat muttered and rocked and dug her large ungainly fists into her stomach. Then, just as I was serving the last customer she raised her head in a kind of defiance and walked in. This last order was a large and rather complicated one. Madame wanted just such a selection, in a round box, with ribbons and flowers and golden hearts and a calling card left blank – at this the ladies turned up their eyes in roguish ecstasy, hihihihil – so that I almost missed the moment. The large hands are surprisingly nimble, rough quick hands reddened with housework. One stays lodged in the pit of the stomach, the other flutters briefly at her side like a gunslinger's swift draw, and the little silver packet with the rose – marked ten francs – has gone from the shelf and into the pocket of her coat.

Nice work. I pretended not to notice until the ladies had left the shop with their parcels. Josephine, left alone in front of the counter, pretended to examine the display, turned over a couple of boxes with nervous, careful fingers. I closed my eyes. The thoughts she sent me were complex, troubling. A rapid series of images flickered through my mind: smoke, a handful of gleaming trinkets, a bloodied knuckle. Behind it all a jittering undercurrent of worry.

`Madame Muscat, may I help you?’

My voice was soft and pleasant. `Or would you just like to look around?’

She muttered something inaudible, turned as if to leave.

`I think I may have something you'll like.’

I reached under the counter and brought out a silver packet similar to the one I had seen her take, though this one was larger. A white ribbon secured the package, sewn with tiny yellow flowers. She looked at me, her wide unhappy mouth drooping with a kind of panic. I pushed the packet across the counter towards her.

`On the house, Josephine,' I told her gently. `It's all right. They're your favourites.’

Josephine Muscat turned and fled.

Saturday, February 15

I KNOW THIS ISN'T MY USUAL DAY, MON PERE BUT I NEEDED to talk. The bakery opened yesterday. But it isn't a bakery. When I awoke yesterday morning at six the wrapping was off, the awning and the shutters were in place and the blind was raised in the display window. What was an ordinary, rather drab old house like all the others around it has become a red-and-gold confection on a dazzling white ground. Red geraniums in the window boxes. Crepe-paper garlands twisted around the railings. And above the door a handlettered sign in black on oak: La Celeste Praline Chocolaterie Artlsanale.

Of course it's ridiculous. Such a shop might well be popular in Marseille or Bordeaux – even in Agen where the tourist trade grows every year. But in Lansquenet-sous-Tannes? And at the beginning of Lent, the traditional season of self-denial? It seems perverse, perhaps deliberately so. I looked into the display window this morning. On a white marble shelf are aligned innumerable boxes, packages, cornets of silver and gold paper, rosettes, bells, flowers, hearts and long curls of multicoloured ribbon. In glass bells and dishes lie the chocolates, the pralines, Venus's nipples, truffles, mendiants, candied fruits, hazelnut clusters, chocolate seashells, candied rose-petals, sugared violets.. Protected from the sun by the half-blind which shields them, they gleam darkly, like sunken treasure, Aladdin's cave of sweet clichés. And in the middle she has built a magnificent centrepiece. A gingerbread house, walls of chocolate-coated pain d'epices with the detail piped on in silver and gold icing, roof tiles of florentines studded with crystallized fruits, strange vines of icing and chocolate growing up the walls, marzipan birds singing in chocolate trees… And the witch herself, dark chocolate from the top of her pointed hat to the hem of her long cloak, half astride a broomstick which is in reality a giant guimauve, the long twisted marshmallows that dangle from the stalls of sweet-vendors on carnival days. From my own window I can see hers, like an eye closing in a sly, conspiratorial wink.