BUCKET TOILET

If a disaster affects the water, you might end up losing indoor plumbing for a bit. In the short-term, you can manually fill the toilet tank and flush as usual. However, if the sewage lines get backed up, that won’t be an option. While using a tree out back might be doable for some, if it is the dead of winter, you might not want to risk frostbite in your nether regions.

MATERIALS

5-gallon bucket with lid

Sand or cat litter

Pool noodle or pipe insulation (optional)

Razor knife

Baking soda or powdered laundry detergent

#1Place a few inches of sand or cat litter in the bucket. Wrap the foam noodle or insulation around the rim of the bucket (if using) to measure, then cut to a length about 8 inches shorter. Slit the entire length, then slip it over the lip of the bucket. This gives you something of a cushioned seat. They do make toilet seats that are specially fitted for 5-gallon buckets. You can find them at larger camping stores. But this should do in a pinch.

#2After each use, sprinkle a little sand as well as baking soda or powered laundry detergent over the leavings to help cut down on odor. You will need to empty and refill the bucket regularly. If you have the space available outside, dig a hole a few feet deep and dump the bucket there. Be sure this hole is at least 200 feet from any open water source, such as creeks or lakes.

#3You could also forgo the initial use of the sand or litter and line the bucket with a heavy-duty garbage bag. This works fairly well, but you’ll need to change the bag after a few uses. Otherwise, it can get quite heavy and you risk tearing the bag as you carry it, which would not end well for anyone involved.

CLOTHESPIN ALARM TRIGGER

I first came across this basic principle when I was leafing through an old US Army field manual on booby traps. I was all of about 12 at the time and was fascinated by such things. While the original design noted in the field manual was to incorporate this trigger into some sort of explosive device, here we’re just using it to raise an alarm.

MATERIALS

Electrical wire

Battery-activated alarm device

Battery

Wooden clothespin with a spring

Small, thin piece of wood, cardboard, or plastic

Trip wire

#1The first thing you’ll need to do is build a basic circuit running from the alarm you’re using and the battery. Run a wire from the positive connection of the alarm to the positive end of the battery. Do the same with the negative connection of the alarm and the negative end of the battery. If you do this correctly, the alarm should sound.

#2Now that you’ve confirmed the alarm circuit works, we’ll interrupt the circuit with our alarm trigger. Disconnect the wire from the positive terminal on the battery. Remove an inch or so of the insulation from the free end of the wire, then wrap the wire around one of the jaws of the clothespin.

#3Next, take a new wire and remove the insulation from the end, then wrap it around the other jaw of the clothespin.

#4When the clothespin is closed, the two wires need to come into contact with one another. Run this new wire from the clothespin to the positive terminal on the battery. As before, if you’ve wired everything properly, the alarm should sound.

#5Open the clothespin and insert a thin piece of wood. Cardboard will work, too, as will plastic or any other nonconductive material. We’ll call this piece of material the “interruptor.” Attach your trip wire to the interruptor. What I often do is drill or punch a small hole in the interruptor, then use that hole as a place to which I tie my line.

#6Position the alarm in such a way that the clothespin is attached to something fairly stationary, such as a wall or a heavy piece of furniture. The trip wire runs from the interruptor to another fixed point, like a nail or screw attached to the wall at the opposite side of the hallway. If both the clothespin and the other end of the trip wire are both firmly anchored, the trip wire will pull the interruptor from the clothespin when the wire is tripped.

#7Obviously, the wires you use to create the circuit between the alarm, battery, and clothespin can be as long as necessary, provided they are securely attached where needed. This allows you to place the trigger in one place and the actual alarm where you’ll hear it.

BUCKET MOUSETRAP

Vermin and pests can really do a number on food storage. The moment you become aware that there’s something getting at your goodies, you need to take action in order to preserve what’s left. Unfortunately, the typical spring-loaded mousetraps you buy at the store will only catch one mouse at a time. Same goes for the glue traps, though sometimes you might get lucky with a two-for-one on those. With this project, not only can you catch several mice at a time, but you also have the option of either terminating them or allowing them to go free somewhere far from your home.

MATERIALS

5-gallon bucket

Drill

Soup can, any size

Wire hanger

Peanut butter

Small board or branch

#1Drill two small holes near the rim of the bucket, directly across from one another. The holes only need to be large enough for the wire hanger to fit through.

#2Remove the top and bottom from the soup can and wash it out. Remove the label as well.

#3Straighten the wire hanger and cut it to length. It should be long enough to stretch from one side of the bucket to the other, with a couple of inches to spare on each side.

#4Run the wire hanger through the two holes, threading it through the soup can. Bend the ends of the wire hanger on the outside of the bucket.

#5Spread peanut butter on the outside of the soup can. You don’t need to use a ton of it, just enough so the mice will be able to smell it and come looking for a snack.

#6Place the bucket on the floor in the room where you’ve found evidence of mice. Position a board or branch to act as a ramp for the mice to use to get up to the top of the bucket. The mice will run up the board, walk across the wire hanger, and attempt to get to the peanut butter on the can. The can spins, depositing the mice into the bucket.

#7If you want to terminate the mice, put several inches of water in the bottom of the bucket. They will not be able to scale the sides of the bucket and will eventually drown. Otherwise, you can leave them in the bucket until you want to relocate them. Put the lid on the bucket, transport the critters to their new home, then dump them out.

$1 DOOR FORTIFICATION

Doors are the most common points of entry for home invasions. Makes sense, right? Most people use doors rather than windows, let alone sliding down the chimney or something. As a practical matter, this means fortifying the entry door is important. First, the door should be solidly constructed and ideally have no windows in it. Next, it should have a locking doorknob as well as a deadbolt. When thrown, the bolt should extend at least 1 full inch into the door frame.