The Fisherman’s Knot is a good knot and is formed by two simple overhand knots slipped over each rope, and when drawn taut.

The Ordinary Knot is for fastening heavy ropes. It is made by forming a simple knot and then interlacing the other rope or “following around.” This knot is very strong, will not slip, is easy to make, and does not strain the fibers of the rope. Moreover, ropes joined with this knot will pay out, or hang, in a straight line.

By whipping the ends to the standing parts it becomes a neat and handsome knot.

The Weaver’s Knot is more useful in joining small lines, or twine, than for rope, and for thread it is without doubt the best knot known.

The ends are crossed, the end A is then looped back over the end B, and the end B is slipped through loop C and drawn tight.

This is a Simple Hitch within a loop, and is sometimes used in fastening two heavy ropes together. It has the advantage of being quick and easy.

When two heavy lines are to be fastened for any considerable time, a good method is to use the Half-hitch and Seizing. This is a secure and easy method of fastening ropes together and it allows the rope to be handled more easily and to pass around a winch or to be coiled much more readily than when other knots are used.

All the above knots are used mainly for fastening the two ends of a rope, or of two ropes, together. The knots used in making a rope fast to a stationary or solid object are known as “hitches” or “ties.” One of the easiest to make and one which is very useful in fastening a boat or other object where it may be necessary to release quickly is the Lark’s Head. To tie this, pass a bight of your rope through the ring, or other object, to which you are making fast and then pass a marline-spike, a piece of wood, or any similar object through the sides of the bight and under or behind the standing part.

The end of the rope may then be laid over and under the standing part and back over itself. This knot may be instantly released by merely pulling out the toggle.

Almost as quickly made and unfastened is the Slippery Hitch.

To make this, run the end of the rope through the ring or eye to which it is being fastened, then back over the standing part and pull a loop, or bight, back through the neck thus formed. To untie, merely pull on the free end.

Two half-hitches—either around a post or timber or around the standing part of the rope—make an ideal and quickly tied fastening. To make these, pass the end around the post, ring, or other object, then over and around the standing part between the post and itself, then under and around the standing part and between its own loop and the first one formed. After a little practice you can tie this knot almost instantly and by merely throwing a couple of turns around a post, two half-hitches may be formed instantly. This knot will hold forever without loosening, and even on a smooth, round stick or spar it will stand an enormous strain without slipping.

A more secure knot for this same purpose is the Clove Hitch. To make this, pass the end of rope around the spar or timber, then over itself, over and around the spar, and pass the end under itself and between rope and spar.

The Tomfool Knot can be used as handcuffs. If the hands or wrists are placed within these loops and the latter drawn taut, and the loose ends tied firmly around the central part, a pair of wonderfully secure handcuffs results.

Sheepshanks or Dogshanks are widely used for shortening rope, especially where both ends are fast, as they can be easily made in the center of a tied rope.

If a temporary halter is needed for a horse, this halter is made by putting the end of a long rope around the neck of the horse and then tying a common bow-line knot.

Next, pass the rope around the animal’s head twice, then pass the second loop under the first.

The rope should be sufficiently long enough to enable it to be passed over the ears of the animal.

CAMP COOKERY

It goes without saying that, you found yourself smack dab in the middle of the mountain wilderness, you’d have to learn to make do—and you can be very sure that the old-time trapper took his calories where he could get them—but given a supply of few staple items like salt, flour, sugar, cornmeal, coffee, tea and beans, the mountain man did very nicely when it came time to rustle up some grub. The wilderness was abounded with good things to eat, and game was plentiful. There was bear, buffalo, venison, moose, Rocky Mountain and big-horned goat, wild turkey, grouse, squirrel, rabbit, beaver, porcupine, and all manner of freshwater fish, turtles, and even frogs legs.

FIRE BUILDING

There are nearly as many types or styles of campfire as there are fire builders—and most woodsmen have their own particular favorites—but a good rule of thumb is to design a fire that meets the exigencies of the situation in camp, keeping in mind the various imperatives of your planned cookery. For example: the ordinary method of fire building for heating an open-camp is to place it against a large green log or against a ledge of rock, a wall of stones built up artificially, or a pile of short green logs resting against two stakes that have been driven at a slight incline.

Fuel

A fire burns best when there are two short pieces of wood placed crosswise on the ground on which the fuel may rest and leave an opening for draft beneath. Green wood is best for holding fire, but it must be mixed with good dry wood or it will not burn well.

Standing dead trees are always drier than those that have fallen, unless the fallen trees are held up sufficiently above the ground to keep them well dried. Wood that is cut on low, damp ground is not as good as that found on higher places. These are the ones that usually pop and throw sparks into blankets, which can be quite the nuisance.

Almost all kinds of dry, hard wood burn readily and throw off plenty of heat. They also burn to embers and hard wood, and therefore should be selected when a bed of live coals is needed. Of the soft wood, dry pine and cedar burn freely but are consumed quickly, leaving no embers and making a lot of smoke. They are an excellent wood for kindling and for use in connection with green, hard wood. Green pine, cedar, fir, and tamarack burn slowly and require much dry wood to help keep them burning. White birch is excellent for camp-fires; dry or green and dry tamarack is one of the best of camp-fire woods.