Sleeping Equipment
This section is about the sort of equipment you need inside the tent, hammock or shelter to complete your insulation from your surroundings. Even when you have a tent that allows for a wood-burning stove, you should not forget that there’s really only a thin layer of canvas separating you from the weather. Tents in general do not hold much heat. Quite often, the warmth that you sense inside a tent is merely the absence of wind. As such, it is really important to choose the right equipment for inside the tent, mainly to prevent you from losing heat through the ground or the surrounding air. Although primitive shelters can provide great insulation, in some cases even to the extent where modern insulation is not needed, many shelters will benefit from some form of sleeping equipment.
Tarps and Bashas
Where the ground is wet, any tarp or basha will help you to stay dry. Carrying one in your backpack may cost a bit in weight or bulk, but in addition to giving you a dry place to sit, the tarp can also be used during the day to gather materials, create a dry space to stand up outside the tent or shelter, or even be worn like a poncho to keep the worst of the rain off you when traveling. With this in mind, I feel that often, it is well worth it to carry a small tarp or basha along. An even lighter, though less rugged, alternative may be an emergency reflective blanket. Bashas and emergency blankets are covered more in-depth in future chapters.
Sleeping Mats
It is also important to carry a good sleeping mat. Unless you are using a hammock or natural bedding as you would in some of the primitive shelters, bring a sleeping mat to both soften your sleeping area and stop body heat from seeping away into the ground. Do not rely on a sleeping bag alone, as the loft will be compressed below your body, seriously impairing its insulative properties.
There are three general types of sleeping mats, each with its benefits and drawbacks.
Open-cell foam mats or pads—These are softer and more comfortable to lie on. The main drawback is that these pads are capable of absorbing water, and because they are softer, they have to be bulkier to compensate. Many pads used by the armed forces are open-cell foam mats. If you choose to use one of these pads, make sure it’s close to an inch or more in thickness. NATO mats are a good option. Where the ground is wet, make sure to use a tarp or basha underneath.
Closed-cell foam mats—Closed-cell foam mats do not absorb water and retain heat better. However, they tend to be very hard and do not cushion very well on uneven ground. They may work better on softer ground or in hammocks.
Self-inflating pads—These often contain a layer of open-cell foam inside and an airtight outer shell. When the valve is open they tend to self-inflate to some extent, and this can be topped up by blowing the pad up further. These pads are probably the most comfortable and useful pads out there, though they tend to be a bit more expensive. They pack up quite small, though may be slightly heavier than other types of mattresses. Their main drawback is that they can easily puncture or start leaking air with age.
Though the self-inflatable pads are more comfortable, pack up smaller and don’t absorb moisture, the potential for leaks usually makes me go for the dependability of open-cell foam pads.
Sleeping Bags
A sleeping bag is usually the first piece of equipment that people think of when planning a camping trip. Even though the options in the shops can be overwhelming, choosing the right sleeping bag is actually fairly simple.
Shape—We all remember the rectangular sleeping bags we used for sleepovers when we were children. Well, these bags are still available. They are very suitable when the weather is mild, when camping in hostels or accommodations with bunk beds, and when packing space is not at a premium. For most wilderness activities, however, they are not very suitable.
The most commonly used shape for sleeping bags intended for the outdoors is the mummy shape. The mummy bag closely follows the contours of the body. You may remember reading in the earlier chapters how natural shelters should be as small as possible so the body has little space to heat. Well, this is the principle used in this sleeping bag design, to great effect. This is a very warm design, and because the bag is as small as possible, it will take up the smallest amount of space in a backpack. These sleeping bags are ideal for most trips into the wilderness.
Material—A lot of very expensive bags are filled with down, particularly white goose down. A far-superior insulating material, down requires a lot less weight to provide the same amount of insulation as a non-down bag. This makes down sleeping bags a lot lighter. They also compress a lot more, leaving more room in your pack for other gear. Down also wicks sweat away quite well. The only problem with down is that it will not insulate when wet. Once the bag is wet, it becomes quite heavy and is also incredibly hard to dry out again. Down sleeping bags cannot normally be put in the washing machine, so a thin sleeping bag liner would be a good option, as it can be washed. If you can guarantee that your sleeping bag will remain dry, no matter what, then down is the best option for you.
A lot of synthetic sleeping bags are now available and the technology is improving all the time. At this moment in time, synthetic sleeping bags are still considerably bulkier and heavier than down sleeping bags, though they insulate fairly well, even when wet. They can also easily be cleaned should they get dirty. For most of my own camping trips, I tend to use a synthetic sleeping bag, as it requires less care.
Temperature rating—Finally, you will need to consider the temperature ranges the bag will most likely be used in. Around the world, there are a few systems in use, from the “season 1 to 5” system to the “comfort temperature/limit temperature” system to the “Tog” system. The problem with any system is that it can be taken quite loosely by manufacturers. Standardized systems also do not take into account what sort of sleeping mat you will use, whether you are a hot or cold sleeper or what your personal level of “comfort” or “limit” is. Since many people are more familiar with the Tog system due to its use in duvets and blankets, it is probably the more useful guide. The best advice is to go to reputable resellers who have personal experience with the products they sell or to take an experienced outdoor person with you when you go shopping for a bag.
Choosing a Place to Shelter
Even with the best clothes and sleeping gear, when it becomes clear that you need to spend the night or if bad weather is on the horizon, you will need to build an actual shelter. The first thing that should cross your mind is the location of this shelter. From personal experience, I can guarantee that spending a generous amount of time finding the perfect location will always far outweigh the benefits of building immediately in a bad location. Even if my need is pressing, I will always look for the best place for the longest possible time. How much time you have to look for a site depends on your circumstances, level of experience and self-knowledge (I know I need at least “x” amount of time for building the shelter I need, etc.).
The main exception to this is if you are in a situation where you need to be found and rescued: an example is being stranded in your vehicle during inclement weather. In this case, it is most important to remain with the vehicle and turn it into a well-insulated shelter instead of wandering off trying to find a better shelter site or trying to return to civilization.
When trying to find a shelter site, it is important to try and prioritize your needs and wishes.
Depending on your unique circumstances, your priorities may be different, but below are mine in order of importance: