Most of the initial survey work on Arizona and Utah has been done, but I will dive with the team on both wrecks as part of the historic landmark study. I’ll also be participating in a side-scan sonar survey of the waters outside Pearl Harbor to search for a Japanese midget submarine that was sunk just before the attack commenced, a warning that was not heeded in time. The midget sub sank in deep water and has never been found.

Standing on the narrow concrete dock while a group of tourists slowly files into the Arizona Memorial, I look across the waters of Pearl Harbor’s Battleship Row. The battleships are gone, their places marked by white concrete quays that the U.S. Navy has kept painted for more than four decades. The names on the quays are those of the battleships that were moored to each on the morning of December 7, 1941: USS Nevada, USS West Virginia, USS Tennessee, USS Oklahoma and, directly in front of me, USS Arizona. Unlike the other ships, which have only a painted name to mark their passing, Arizona rests in the water below me.

Around me is a group of other divers drawn from the ranks of the National Park Service and the U.S. Navy, all of us preparing our gear and suiting up to jump into the dark green waters of the harbor. The water is too warm for a wetsuit, but bare skin is no protection against barnacles and rusted steel, so I pull on a pair of Park Service dark green coveralls before strapping on my weight belt, tanks and gear.

After reading dozens of books and poring over files and interviews with men who fought here on that tragic day, I’m ready to explore a ship that precious few have been allowed to visit. Arizona is a war grave, and as many as nine hundred of her crew are interred within the crumbling steel of the battleship. This is sacred ground for Americans, and a potent symbol of a long and terrible war that, for the United States, began here. Only a handful of divers have been allowed to go beneath the surface and explore the ship.

The large American flag flying over the wreck of Arizona waves lightly in the warm breeze against a bright blue sky. I pause for a second, then turn back to my gear checks and final preparations. With my dive partner on one side, we stride together off the dock, splashing into the murky water and sinking 45 feet to the soft muddy bottom. We can’t see more than a couple of yards ahead as we adjust our buoyancy. Floating gently over the mud, we swim slowly towards the wreck.

My subconscious registers the looming presence of the hulk before I realize that I see it. Perhaps it is the shadow of the wreck’s mass in the sun-struck water, masked by the silt, but there, suddenly darker and cooler. My heart starts to pound and my breath gets shallow for a second with superstitious fear. This is my first dive on a shipwreck with so many lost souls aboard. I flick on my light and the blue-green hull comes alive with marine life in bright reds, yellows and oranges, some of it the rust that crusts the once pristine steel. As I rise up from the muddy bottom, I encounter my first porthole. It is an empty dark hole that I cannot bring myself to look into. I feel the presence of the ship’s dead, and though I know it is only some primitive level of my subconscious at work, I can’t look in because of the irrational fear that someone inside will look back.

Not once throughout this dive, nor ever in the dives that follow, do I forget that this ship is a tomb. But the curiosity of the archeologist overcomes the fear, and I look into the next porthole. As my light reaches inside, I see what looks like collapsed furniture and a telephone attached to a rusted bulkhead. This is the cabin of Rear Admiral Isaac Kidd, who died on that long-ago December morning. His body was never found. Salvage crews found Kidd’s ring partly melded to the steel at the top of Arizona’s conning tower, apparently blown there by the force of the blast that sank the ship.

From here, we rise up to the deck and follow it to the rim of the No. 4 turret. The turret, stripped by U.S. Navy salvagers during the war, is now a large round hole in the heart of the battleship. Half filled with silt, it has been designated as the receptacle for the urns of Arizona’s survivors, who, years after the battle, choose to be cremated and interred with their former shipmates for eternity. It is a powerful statement about the bonds forged by young men in service together, bonds that even the passage of decades and death itself cannot fully sever. I gaze at the first urn placed inside here in March 1984 and pause for a respectful moment of prayer before rising again to the deck. I turn to my right and head for the stern, and there, in water that is only a couple of yards deep, I float on the surface and look down at the empty socket for the jackstaff where Arizona’s flag once flew.

After the blast that split open Arizona and set her ablaze, the crew abandoned ship. Flooded and sunk to the bottom, Arizona rested in the soft mud, which gradually, as the next few days passed, yielded to the weight of the massive ship. Ultimately, the decks disappeared beneath the water. Today, they lie just a few feet below the surface and nearly half the hull is buried in the mud. But on the evening of December 7, even as fires blazed forward, the stern was not touched and the ship’s huge American ensign hung off the jackstaff. One of Arizona’s officers, Lieutenant Kleber S. Master son, was ashore during the attack. He returned to assist with first aid and muster the surviving crew members. “There weren’t many,” he later said. “Out of eight-four men in my fire control division, I think there were only five survivors.”

After being temporarily reassigned to the battleship Maryland, Masterson decided to return to Arizona to take down the flag. “It was the big Sunday ensign flying from the stern, and it was dragging in the water and getting all messed up with oil.” With another Arizona survivor, Ensign Leon Grabowsky, Masterson motored over to the still-burning ship in a launch. Jumping aboard, they found only an eerie silence. “We heard no noises, because there were, of course, no survivors under that little bit of deck we could walk on.” As the sun set, Grabowsky lowered the flag while Masterson gathered up the oily cloth in his arms. They returned to Maryland and handed over the flag to the officer of the deck, who sent it off to be burned. Drifting over the spot where the two officers performed that final ceremonial duty, I think not only of Masterson and Grabowsky but of all the men who died that day.

Backing up, I drop down to look at the fantail. A buoy chained to the wreck here marks the stern to passing boats. The buoy’s mooring chain drags across the steel hull, back and forth, scraping off corrosion and marine growth. The thick steel letters that spell out the name ARIZONA are bright and shiny, polished by the incessant movement of the chain. They reflect some of the sunlight that drifts down through the water, and for brief moments, the name of the ship blazes as if on fire again. It is an awe-inspiring sight, and I hang there listening to the beat of my heart and the air moving through my regulator.

Swimming back to the edge of the deck, we follow it along the starboard side, coming up to an open hatch near the No. 3 turret. I hover over it, looking down into the darkness, my light picking up the tangle of debris that blocks it. Then, to my surprise, I see something rising up to meet me. It is a blob of oil, no bigger than a child’s marble. It passes the edge of the hatch and floats to the surface, where it turns into an iridescent slick. Six seconds later, another globule of oil follows it, and I, like so many others who have watched this phenomenon, am struck by the fact that Arizona still bleeds.