There you go. I had barely even arrived, and already I’d called someone “Father,” and the taxi driver had replied with the typical florid wisdom of the East. I asked, “Did one of the great ones say that?”
“My grandfather said that. He was a Red Army soldier. Then an enemy of the people. Then the director of a Soviet farm. Yes, he was great.”
“Did he happen to be called Rustam?” I inquired.
“No, Rashid.”
The car drove off and I turned my face to the breeze from the window. The air was warm and fresh, and it smelled quite different from the air in Russia. And the road was good, even by Moscow standards. A wall of trees along the side of the highway provided shade and created the impression that we were already in the city.
The taxi driver said thoughtfully, “An air conditioner. Nowadays everyone promises their passengers coolness. But what did our grandfathers and great-grandfathers know about air conditioners? They just opened the windows in their cars and they felt fine!”
I looked at the driver in bewilderment.
“It’s just my joke. Have you flown in from Moscow?”
“Yes.”
“No baggage at all…Ai-ai-ai!” He clicked his tongue. “Don’t tell me they lost it!”
“An urgent business trip. There was no time to pack.”
“Urgent? Nothing’s urgent in our city. There was a city standing here a thousand years ago, two thousand years ago, three thousand years ago. The place has forgotten what urgent means.”
I shrugged. The car was certainly taking its time, but it didn’t bother me.
“So where are we going? There’s the Hotel Samarkand, the Hotel-”
“No thanks. I didn’t come here to sleep. I need the marketplace. The Siabsky Market, in the Old City.”
“That’s the right way to do it!” the driver said warmly. “The man knows where he’s going and what for. The moment he lands, he goes straight to the market. No luggage, no wife, no problems-that’s the right way to live! But did you bring money to go to the market?”
“I did,” I said, nodding. “How can you go to the market with no money? How much will I owe you? And what do you take-soms or rubles?”
“Even dollars or euros,” the driver replied nonchalantly. “Give me as much as you think you can spare. I can see you’re a good man, so why haggle? A good man is ashamed not to pay a poor taxi driver enough. He pays more than my conscience will allow me to ask.”
“You’re a good psychologist,” I laughed.
“Good? Yes…probably. I did a PhD in Moscow. A long time ago…” He paused and then said, “But no one needs psychologists nowadays. I earn more as a taxi driver.”
He paused again, and I couldn’t think of anything to say in reply. But we were already driving through the city, and soon the driver began listing all the places I had to visit in Samarkand. Three madrasahs that made up the Registan, a single architectural ensemble; the Bibi-Khanym Mosque…All this, as it happened, was right beside the finest market in Samarkand, the Siabsky, which, as the driver now realized, was famous even as far away as Moscow. And I also had to visit the market, even before anything else. It would be a sin not to see it. But a good man like me wouldn’t make a mistake like that…
The driver would probably have been very disappointed to see me walk straight past the entrance to the market. No, of course I was planning to visit it. There was work to do, but I still had to gather some impressions to take away with me.
But now wasn’t the time.
And so I elbowed my way out of the noisy crowd outside the entrance to the market, walked past a herd of Japanese (they’d even found their way here!) who all had the usual tiny cameras and video cameras dangling from their necks and their shoulders, then set off to walk around the Bibi-Khanym Mosque. It really was impressive. The ceramic tiling of the huge dome glinted a bright azure blue in the sunlight. The doorway was so huge that I thought it looked bigger than the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, and the absence of any bas-relief work on the wall was more than made up for by the intricate patterning of blue glazed bricks.
But the place I was headed for was no glamorous tourist spot.
Every city has streets that were built under an unlucky star. And they don’t have to be located on the outskirts, either. Sometimes they run alongside gloomy factory buildings, sometimes along the railway lines or main highways, sometimes even beside a park or ravine that has survived through some oversight by the municipal authorities. People move in there reluctantly, but afterward they don’t leave very often-they seem to fall under the spell of a strange kind of drowsiness. And life there follows quite different laws and moves at quite a different pace…
I remember one district in Moscow where a one-way street ran alongside a ravine overgrown with trees. It seemed like a perfectly ordinary dormitory suburb, but it was under that spell of drowsiness. I found myself there one winter evening on a false alarm-the witch who was making love potions had a license. The car drove away, leaving me to draw up a report noting the absence of any complaints on either side, then I went out into the street and tried to stop a car-I didn’t want to call a taxi and wait for it in the witch’s apartment. Although it wasn’t very late, it was already completely dark, and there was thick snow falling. There was absolutely no one on the street, everyone took a different road from the metro station. Almost all the cars had disappeared too, and the ones that did drive by were in no hurry to stop. But right at the edge of the ravine there was a small amusement park, surrounded by a low fence: a little hut for the ticket-seller, two or three roundabouts, and a children’s railway-a circle of rails about ten meters in diameter. And in the total silence, under the soft snow falling from the sky, against the background of empty, lifeless blackness, the tiny locomotive was running around the circle, jingling its bell and blinking its little colored lights as it pulled along two little carriages. Sitting absolutely still in the first one was a boy about five years old, dusted with snow, wearing a large cap with earflaps and clutching a plastic spade in his hand. He was probably the ticket-seller’s son and she had no one to leave him with at home… It didn’t seem like anything special, but it gave me such a bad feeling that I used magic and made the driver of a passing truck stop and take me to the city center.
Allowing for the difference between the cities, that was pretty much the kind of street where the Night Watch office was located. I didn’t need a map, I could sense where I needed to go. And I only had to walk for ten minutes from the market-place, which was right at the center of town. But I seemed to have entered a different world. Not the bright world of an Eastern fairy tale, but a kind of ordinary, average place that you can find in the Asian republics of the former Soviet Union, Turkey, and the southern countries of Europe. Half Europe, half Asia, with far from the best features of either part of the world. A lot of greenery, but that’s the only good part-the two-or three-story houses were dusty, dirty, and dilapidated. If they were less monotonous, they might at least have rejoiced the eye of some tourist. But even that variety was lacking here, everything was dismally standard: paint flaking off the walls, dirty windows, entrance doors standing wide open, washing hanging on lines in the courtyards. The phrase “frame-and-panel housing construction” surfaced from somewhere in the depths of my memory. Its bleak, bureaucratic tone made it the perfect description of these buildings that were meant to be temporary but had already stood for more than half a century.
The Night Watch office occupied a small, dilapidated single-story building that was surrounded by a small garden. I thought that a building like that looked just perfect for a small kindergarten, filled with swarthy, dark-haired little kids.