"You speak Greek – oh you speak Latin?" He changed swiftly to

Latin, though we had not said a word. "Where are you folks from? Croton? Rome? My brother lives at Tarentum " Oh no. "Xenophon's fish bar, do you know his place?"

Our guide was named Barzanes. Should you go to Olympia, try to be snaffled by a different one.

"First I will show you the workshop of Phidias "

We had seen it for ourselves already. That did not stop him.

As we stood for the second time in the enormous workshop being regaled with facts, Helena was the only one of us prepared to be civil to the guide. He was tall, with a small head set on lop-sided shoulders, one wider than the other. He wore a long belted robe like a charioteer, and carried a stave with which he gesticulated enthusiastically.

Yes, it was miraculous to find ourselves standing in the very place where one of the world's greatest artists had produced his masterpiece. To prove it, we were shown surviving moulds, faulty casts, and minuscule bits of marble, gold sheet and ivory. Funnily enough, they were for sale; this charade for the public must have been going on for five hundred years. At Barzanes" voice, souvenir-sellers had popped out of nowhere. We were even offered a blackened cup that said i BELONG TO PHIDIAS It was an exorbitant price but I bought it, even though the sculptor's name was spelled the Roman way. It was the only way to escape. I would give it to my father as a souvenir. It did not matter if the cup was a fake; so was my father.

We hustled Barzanes back to the Temple of Zeus. In fairness, our guide knew a whole whack of statistics. "The temple was financed by the Elians and took ten years to build; it has thirty-four columns, topped with plain square pediments; above the columns you will see a painted frieze of innumerable mouldings in deep hues of red, blue, and gold – " He was unstoppable. "The roof is of Athenian Pentelic marble, drained in rainstorms through over one hundred marble waterspouts in the form of lions" heads. Twenty-one gilded shields which you see now, but which were unknown to the ancients, have been placed here by the Roman general Mummius after he sacked Corinth -"

Oh dear. We tried looking innocent, but felt like bastard conquerors.

"Here on the west pediment is the battle between the Centaurs and Lapiths at the wedding of Pinthous -"

"This has two morals," I said to Gaius and Cornelius. "Do not invite

barbarians to your wedding and – since the Centaurs got drunk and went after the women – do not serve too much wine.'

Barzanes kept going strong." On the east pediment, as the athletes approach to make their dedication to the god, they look up and see the chariot race between Pelops and Oenomaus for the hand of Hippodameia. King Oenomaus killed unsuccessful suitors, and nailed their heads above his palace gate"

"Seems fair,' I said" Speaking as a father"

"There are two stories. Greece never seemed to have one myth where a guide could relate two." Either Pelops bribed the King's charioteer to replace Pelops' axle pins with wax ones, or Poseidon gave Pelops a matchless winged chariot and caused Oenomaus to be pitched out and killed.

"Is this myth intended to encourage competitors to use tricks and to cheat?' asked Helene drily.

"The true message is that they should use their best endeavours -cunning brains as well as bodily strength.'

"And winning is all,' Helene growled.

"There are no second prizes at the Games,' Barzanes acknowledged.

"You are accepting my scepticism very generously.'

"I have acted as a guide for Roman ladies before.'

Helene and I exchanged a glance, wondering if he had been employed by Seven Sights.

Unlike many temples, visitors were allowed to enter the interior. Of course that did not mean they could enter for free. We gave Barzanes a sum he suggested, to bribe the priests We then coughed up an extra fee to acquire" special' permission for Albia and the lads to climb some spiral stairs to the upper floor to view the statue at close quarters. Finally we gave Barzanes himself a large tip for his facts and figures. He stayed behind on the temple steps in the hope of more people to hijack.

I wanted to interrogate him about the murders, but no mission was going to stop me seeing one of the Seven Wonders of the World, especially with Helene. Informers are street-level muckers, trading in grime, but I had a soul. Personally, I found it necessary for the job.

We all paused to accustom our eyes to the lamplit gloom, after the noonday glare outside. Then we simply gasped with awe It seemed only fair. The great Phidias had intended that we should

There were other statues; the temple interior was an art gallery They were wasted. All we could do was to stare up at Zeus, utterly smitten. From fourteen yards high, his head skimming the rafters, he seemed to be gazing down on us. At the steps of his throne stretched a glimmering pool, a rectangle of olive oil in which the Father of the Gods was cleanly reflected. Its moisture helped preserve the ivory of the chryselephantine colossus, though temple priests also burnished it with more oil daily. We were aware of their presence. Moving about discreetly, they tended their charge, supposedly all descendants in an unbroken line from the craftsmen who had worked for Phidias.

I had heard about this statue all my life. I could not now remember how and where I first read of it or was told of it I had known what it would look like, the massive seated god, bearded and crowned with olive branches, his robe of gold adorned with creatures and flowers, his sceptre topped with the gold eagle, the winged figure of Victory in his right hand, the ebony and ivory throne adorned with precious stones and vibrant painting

So many things in life are disappointing But sometimes life confounds you. a promised Wonder of the World lives up to your hopes.

Helene and I stood for a long time, hand in hand I felt the warmth of her bare arm alongside mine, the faint tickle on the top of my foot from the hem of her long gown. Helene was as cynical as me, but she knew how to give herself up fully to the enjoyment of great things Her thrill became part of my own.

Eventually she dropped her head briefly against my shoulder, then told the excited youngsters that they could climb up to the higher

level. Left alone, Helene and I turned a little towards each other and remained there together for a few more moments.

At length we walked quietly outside to the dazzling sunlight in the sanctuary, still hand in hand.

We paused on the steps until our breathing returned to normal. Our skin felt clammy with the mingled effects of incense and fine olive oil droplets.

Barzanes had failed to find another group. Although we had already tipped him, he hovered near us. He must have seen hundreds of awestruck spectators returning from their visit. He watched us approvingly.

Helene went off quietly to see the temple priests. We had had no sighting of her brother Aulus and if he was still here, we needed to track him down. If he had travelled away from Olympia, he would have left a message at the main temple, to be picked up by anyone who came after him. Aulus had his own assured style; he must have been certain I would rush out to Greece in response to his letter home.

Aulus would have given the priests money, but I made sure Helene could pay them another gratuity. It would be expected. Best to keep in with them. Zeus was indifferent to mortal men, but priests were easily slighted and in a sanctum like this they wielded enormous power.

I moved down the steps and joined our guide again.

"Did you enjoy your visit?' he asked.