We are running late when we get to Canton, where we have a happy reunion with our fellow sticker-wearing, museum-going duck-skin-eaters from the other buses at the Canton Zoo. I don’t want to sound like a broken record here, but this is a grim and seedy zoo, an Animal’s Republic of China, all cracked concrete and dirty cages. The other zoo-goers seem more interested in us tourists than in the animals, staring as we pass. We’re shepherded to the pandas and the monkeys, then into a special, foreigners-only area to buy souvenirs. I buy my son a little green hat styled like the one Chairman Mao used to wear, with a red star on the front. Radical chic.

Back on the bus, we drive through Canton’s streets, which are teeming with people on bicycles, forming major bicycle traffic jams. Imagine all the bicycles in the world, then double this amount, and you have an idea of Canton at rush hour. We pass a large market, where, John assures us, you can buy any kind of snake you want. Fortunately, we don’t stop; we’re going to see the Temple of the Six Banyans, which no longer has any banyans, although it does have three large brass statues of Buddha, which John claims are the largest brass Buddha statues in Guangzhou Province, and I don’t doubt it for a minute. Next we head for the Dr. Stin Yat-Sen Memorial Hall, which is quite impressive and which boasts the largest brass statue of any kind in Guangzhou Province. Out front is a sign recounting the hall’s history in English, including this mysterious sentence: “In 1988, the Guangzhou municipality had allocated funds for get rid of the hidden electrical danger in the hall Comprehensively.”

Next we’re scheduled to see the Statue of the Five Goats, but we’re running out of time, which is a shame because I’m sure it’s the largest statue of the five goats in Guangzhou Province. Instead we go to the Hotel of the Western-Style Toilets, the lobby of which is bustling with sticker-wearers rushing to get to the restrooms and back to the buses. There’s only one more train back to Hong Kong tonight, and nobody wants to miss it.

We reach the train station in a heavy downpour. Led by our Hong Kong guide, Tommy, we press our way through the crowds to the security checkpoint, then board Train No. 97 for Hong Kong. It’s a fascinating train, a long way from the sterile, snack-bar ambience of Amtrak. Train No. 97 has funky old coaches with wide aisles, through which women push carts offering food, drinks, snacks, and duty-free cognac. The train also has a crowded, smoky dining car, a kitchen, people in uniform watching you, people who are not in uniform but are still watching you, and various little rooms and passages with people going in and out. It’s a mysterious little world unto itself, Train No. 97. Walking through the rocking cars as night falls over the rice paddies outside, I feel like a character in a melodrama. The Last Train to Hong Kong. Two of my fellow sticker-wearers walk past me, smiling, one of them wearing a souvenir Mao-style hat. This is cool, being on a train in Red China. As long as you can get out.

In three hours we’re back in Hong Kong, which felt so foreign this morning but which now feels familiar and safe, like Des Moines. I rip my sticker off, a free man. I still don’t know anything about China. I’m just one more superficial sheep-like bus-riding tourist. But I know this: I don’t want to be in Hong Kong after June 30, 1997.

Tick tick tick tick tick ...

As we’re saying good-bye to Tommy, I ask him what he’s going to do. He answers instantly.

“I’m going to marry a Westerner and get out of here,” he says. He’s laughing, but I’m not sure that he’s kidding.

The next morning we read in the Hongkong Standard about two things that happened on the day we were in China:

* The chief of public security for the area we visited was executed. He’d been found guilty of corruption the previous day (none of those pesky appeals in the People’s Republic). Among other things, he accepted bribes in exchange for letting people get out of China.

* In Beijing, the People’s Dally ran a front-page editorial calling for a

“great wall of iron” to protect China from “hostile forces,” particularly democracy. The editorial said that if China’s 1989 prodemocracy movement had succeeded, it would have been a catastrophe for the people and a step back for history.”

Those wild and crazy Chinese leaders! Those happy-go-lucky, fun-loving, Most-Favored-Nation guys! They’re going to have a ball with Hong Kong. My advice is, see it while you can.

Tick tick tick tick tick ...

And if anybody out there is in the market for a tall, likable English-speaking Chinese husband, I know of a guy who might be available.

You’ll be pleased to learn that I have thought up yet another way to revive our nation’s sagging economy by making myself rich.

To understand my concept, you need to be aware of an important fashion trend sweeping the entire nation (defined as “parts of New York and San Francisco”). Under this trend, sophisticated urban persons, seeking leisure wear, are purchasing used, beat-up, worn, ripped, raggedy cowboy garments that were previously owned by actual cowboys. People are actually paying more for damaged cowboy jeans than for new ones.

I found out about this trend through the alertness of reader Suzanne Hough, who sent me an article by Maria Recio of the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. The article states that used cowboy jeans are selling briskly at $50 a pair in San Francisco and $65 a pair in New York. The ones with holes are considered most desirable. Here are two quotes about this trend from the article:

FROM THE OWNER OF A NEW YORK CITY STORE THAT SELLS THE JEANS: “It gives a bit of romance.”

FROM AN ACTUAL TEXAS COWBOY: “It sounds pretty stupid.”

Of course it is exactly this shortsighted lack of fashion consciousness on the part of cowboys that keeps them stuck in dead-end jobs where they must become involved with actual cows. Meanwhile your fashion visionaries such as Mr. Ralph “Hombre” Lauren—people who truly understand the spirit of the West—have made so much money in recent years selling designer lines of Pretend Cowboy clothing that they can afford to build large tasteful pretend ranch estates with color-coordinated sagebrush.

But now we have gone, as a nation, beyond Pretend Cowboy fashions, and into Formerly Real Cowboy fashions. I called several stores, and they told me the demand for used jeans is very strong.

“People want holes in the knees, crotch, and buns,” stated Murray Selkow, a Philadelphia native who now owns the Wild Wild West store in San Francisco. “What’s very popular is two tears right at the bottom of the buns.”

To locate the source of cowboy jeans I called Montana, a large cow-intensive state located near Canada. I spoke with Judy MacFarlane, who owns a company called Montana Broke, located outside a small town called (really) Manhattan. She buys used jeans from cowboys and sells them to stores such as Wild Wild West.

“I will not accept any jeans unless they’re from a bona fide cattle rancher, rodeo rider, or sherriff’s posseman,” she told me. She said each pair of Montana Broke jeans comes with a label explaining the occupation of the cowboy who owned it, plus a “Tracking Guide,” which shows the purchaser how to figure out which specific cowboy activities caused the various holes, stains, and worn spots on the jeans. I’m sure this provides hours of enjoyment for urban professionals, who, after a hard day of wrangling sales reports, can mosey back to their condominiums, rustle up a mess o’ sushi, and spend an old-fashioned Western-style evening analyzing their jean damage. (“Oh, look, Jennifer! This brown mark on the knee occurred when the cowboy branded a calf! Or fell into a cow pie!” “Oh, Brad! That just makes me want to roll back the Oriental rug and initiate a hoedown!”)